A Guide to Watch Fob Chains

We've always loved vintage watch fobs here at 100 Ways and now that these gorgeous antique fob chains are gaining popularity in fashion once again, it's time to talk about them. We often get asked what exactly are watch chains or watch fobs or fobs and everything in between.

Here we'll share a bit of the history of pocket watch fobs, some features that define them and a how-to-wear guide to help you wear these decorative fobs with everyday outfits. 

What is a Watch Fob Chain?

Originally, as the name suggests, watch fobs were designed for pocket watches. These watch chains are traditionally made with fine metals such as solid gold, but have been made with a variety of materials over the years.

Until the development of  wrist watches around World War I, watches were designed to be carried in the pocket. These watch fobs were designed to fasten to a pocket watch at the end of a chain (called a fob) in the small pocket of a waistcoat. These pockets are sometimes called fob pockets. The word, 'fob' actually originates from German language meaning 'small pocket'. 

While fob refers to the watch chain, it can also refer to the decorative ornament or pendant suspended at the end of the chain. These were often fob seals which might look like a standard vintage charm, but are designed to be a personal wax seal that could be used to create an impression in a wax seal on documents to prevent forgery.

Characteristics of a Vintage Watch Fob Chain

A typical antique fob watch chain would be made of fine metals throughout the 19th Century, and would consist of a medium weight chain that offered a spring loaded swivel clasp to suspend a pocket watch. There is no specific chain link style for vintage watch fobs, so you'll see a range of chains and link styles. 

The swivel clasp spring ring would allow the pocket watch to be easily turned without twisting the chain to view the time. Often times there would be a secondary clasp and short chain to affix a decorative fob, seal, or charm. 

If you love antiques and are looking for a antique pocket watch chain, you'll find that these are a lower carat than many modern fine jewellery creations as was common for the time period. 

There are many types of pocket watch chains, but one that we see often is the T Bar Chain (this term is often used interchangeably with fob chain) and refers to the T-Bar fitted chains popularized in the Victorian Era by Prince Albert.

These T-Bars would would be fitted through the button hole of a waistcoat making it easier to access the pocket watch. The other end of the chain would feature a clasp to attach the pocket watch kept in a waistcoat pocket. These have been named 'Albert Chains'. You might also see Double Albert Chains which would have two lengths of chain so they can be dropped into both pockets on a waistcoat. 

Seal Fobs and Watch Chain Ornaments

Many vintage pocket watches have chains that feature a small drop chain that can affix to a fob. You might think of these as keychains for your watch chain; these fobs are decorative to look at, but many also served as a personal seal or stamp.

These seal fobs might feature intricate carvings, monograms, or unique cuts that would transfer into wax seals. The wearer would use the seal fob to imprint warm wax to personalize important documents or letters. 

Some vintage fobs also feature gemstones. A gemstone seal fob would be worn by the wealthy with their formal wear as a status symbol. Many of the gemstones chosen are known for symbolic meaning or were chosen for durability of use as a seal fob.

Today these seal fobs are common collectors items and are used primarily as pendants, no longer needing to function for sealing documents. You can see how this Victorian Gold Carnelian Seal Fob Pendant is worn on a standard chain as a pendant. 

Another feature we see in many seal fobs is a swivel feature, allowing the decorative fob to have more than one gemstone or carving that can be used. This also can allow the fob to lay flat against the wearer, but swivel to be used as a seal, like this 1905 Birmingham Bloodstone & Agate Double Side Stone Set Fob.

Two's not enough? This antique victorian swivel seal fob has three sides!

A seal fob is not the only ornament that can be worn from a watch chain. We've seen decorations of all kinds attached to vintage watch chains, from lockets to charms to express one's style. 

How to Wear a Watch Fob as Jewellery

Looking for ways to work vintage pocket watch chains into your daily wear?

Here we have some of our favourite ways to enjoy these vintage watch fobs in modern fashion. You can find some of our favourite pieces for these applications at the bottom of this post!

Wear a Watch Fob Chain as a Necklace

This is our staff's favourite way to wear a fob chain. We pulled these photos from our grand opening event where our Goldsmith and Product Supervisor Jill and our Product Specialist Heather are both wearing a watch chain as a necklace without modification. 

You can often wear a watch fob as a short necklace or choker necklace as is by fastening the chain around your neck, connecting the swivel clasp (that you would traditionally use for the pocket watch) to the other end. Look for a chain that is at least 15" long for this. 

You can see how this Birmingham Hallmarked 18k Trombone Link T Bar Watch Chain is used as a short necklace with the T-Bar detail acting as a pendant. 

If you've found a vintage or antique fob watch chain that you love but it's too short, there's a couple of options for you. We've had some customized to be made into necklaces which allows the exact length you like best, and at the at that time, time charms can be attached if you wish. 

Another way you can enjoy a watch fob as a necklace is by adding a second chain. The additional chain can be looped through one end of the watch fob and attached back to the clasp at the end. You can get a very customized look by swapping out your chain style and length here. This is exactly how we saw Taylor Swift wear her citrine fob and watch chain.

See post on Instagram

Wear a Watch Chain as a Bracelet

Watch chains can also make unique vintage bracelets. Shorter watch chains are well suited to this, or you can wrap the chain a couple times for a chunkier look. Thanks to the spring loaded clasps and often time wide chain links, you can easily customize the bracelet length by clipping to a different section of chain. Those clips also make it easy to attach charms for an antique charm bracelet you can switch out easily. 

Add Charms and Fobs To Your Watch Chain Jewellery

Many of our watch fob chains come with decorative fobs attached, but more can be added easily. The spring loaded clasps on many watch chains make it easy to attach a charm at the ends, or even easier, most vintage fobs have a large loop to make it simple to thread over even the widest of chains. 

You might also find a decorative fob or seal fob already attached to a short fob chain with a clasp at the end to easily attach to a watch chain or necklace. This is sometimes called a 'tassel' that was designed to hang outside of the pocket to display your decorative fob. You can see that with this Art Deco Era 1925 Birmingham Initial 'A' Seal Fob Pendant.

A Traditional Pocket Watch Fob

Have a three-piece suit or at very least a waistcoat (vest) you'd like to dress up? 

Why not wear your vintage watch chain exactly how it's designed! Traditional pocketwatch fobs can be worn as a decorative accessory for your waistcoat whether or not you have a pocket watch hiding in your pocket. If you choose a chain with a T-Bar, you can pop that through the button hole for some extra style and even add a decorative fob out of your pocket. 

If you are interested in fine old timekeepers, however... we can help with that too! We have various styles of watches from eras throughout history, and occasionally we'll get a  pocket watch- but these do sell very quickly. 

Wear a Vintage Fob as a Trouser Chain

A play on the traditional pocket chains, you can easily attach a vintage fob to your trousers or even jeans by the belt loops, tucking one end inside the pocket. We love how easily these belt loop chains add a little something to a standard fashion look and is a great way for men to add a vintage fob to their everyday wardrobe. 

Where to Buy Vintage Watch Fob Chains 

While there are many reproductions available, we love a true antique watch fob. Jewellery from the Victorian Era and 19th Century in general is often difficult to find and even more difficult to know whether a piece is truly vintage or reproduction.

We're proud to have a selection of vintage and antique watch fob chains here at 100 Ways that have been inspected, graded, and authenticated by our experts using gold testing, hallmark and stamp identification, and context clues such as the materials used and craftsmanship techniques. If you are buying from another retailer or individual, these are things that you could ask about to help verify what you're purchasing and can indicate a high quality antique piece of jewellery.

If you do have questions for us about any of our products or would like any further information on a piece, we're always happy to answer them with a quick message, or you can schedule an appointment in store or virtually- we'd love to help you get a closer look at the pieces you love. 

To make it easy to find, we've gathered all of our watch fobs and watch chains in a collection for you right here.

Almost all pieces that are of this age are one-of-a-kind and can sell quite quickly. Make sure to check back frequently, as we add new inventory in a range of styles to our store every single Monday and Friday. While these beauties are rather rare, we still see them quite often thanks to our network of gold buyers!